in Valtellina lo sfursàt, in Liguria il renforzà,
la viticoltura eroica avvicina i nomi...
testo a cura di Umberto Curti, Ligucibario (www.ligucibario.com)
per recuperare le lezioni precedenti scorri i post più vecchi!
La vinificazione frizzante origina vini da 1,5 a 3,4 atmosfere di pressione, la vinificazione spumante origina vini da 3,5 a 5 e talvolta anche a 6-8 atmosfere. Esse devono poggiare su vini base sani, giustamente acidi, da uve perfette.
La pressione nelle bottiglie si misura con gli afrometri ad una temperatura di circa 20°. Ve ne sono di vari tipi, che s’avvitano nel tappo e forniscono una lettura anche digitale del dato pressorio. Come elemento storico di base si tenga presente che gli zuccheri sopravvissuti all’inverno (a causa di una fermentazione incompleta) erano di nuovo aggrediti dai lieviti. Agli inizi del ‘600 l’interesse per bevande ri-fermentate collima con la produzione di vetri più resistenti e di ottimi tappi di sughero, in grado di reggere la spinta dell’anidride carbonica (scaturente da un processo biochimico). Alla fine del ‘600 l’abate Dom Pierre Pérignon, presso la benedettina abbazia di Hautvillers, opera in qualità di ideatore la ri-fermentazione in bottle, which by that time called the Champagne method (méthode is female) or a classical or traditional. Conversely at the beginning of '900 the engineer Eugene Charmat, capitalized research Italian, Federico Martinotti, works as a designer the method that bears his name, and in which the re-fermentation in autoclaves, which is typically rounded tanks , with a special coating and pressure gauges, after which there shall be filtering and bottling. In a nutshell, the sweet sparkling wines and aromatic (see the list of so-called aromatic varieties) are obtained with a fast re-fermentation, retaining the juice at 0 degrees and adding sugar in the form of sucrose - each 4 grams of sugar abundant disrupted you get 1 (one) atmosphere of pressure -. Sucrose that is extracted from sugar beet and sugar cane but - mind you - by being used in other cases, crime, fraud (not so in France, where more casually call chaptalisation). Therefore, a pressure up to 2.5 bar requires 10-12 g of sugar per liter, 3.5 bar will require 14-18 g, and so on.
Other types of sparkling wine are obtained by re-fermentation by adding sugar and yeast (20-24 g per liter) to the basic dry wine has the so-called froth (foam). The process is facilitated by mechanical shakers.
more attractive, the Champenoise method (in Italy called Classic) which immediately put her on the mix of different varieties of grapes to obtain suitable levels of acidity (essential to the longevity of sparkling wines), finesse, structure ... It is, therefore, the chef de cave get with wines of different grapes (and / or several thousandths of) the best blend, that is the recipe for "copyright" that will make the sparkling wine unlike any other and ensure a harmonious development. Let us remember that we are working on a "subject" is alive and vibrant alcohol, carbon dioxide, heat, and that the carbon dioxide will be "captured" by means of autoclave in Charmat or - indeed - in the bottle method Champenoise. The base wine is dry, so we have to help re-using the yeast sucrose (by being used in other cases as mentioned criminal offense) in order to obtain the re-fermentation and pressure. This wine becomes enriched with the so-called "liqueur de tirage. The slower the re-fermentation, the finer and the foam will be persistent. At this point, on a beautiful sunny day, we use bottles washed with water and sulfur which, temporarily plugged with a cap with "bidule (capsule) of plastic, will rest in the cellar at a temperature of 10-12 degrees for a period ranging from 9 months to several years, so that the yeast dissolve after completing their meritorious duty. During this period the bottles on the stands (pupitres) are shaken (remuage) to dislodge the sediment (this is the yeast, hence the classic scent of bread). Gradually, more and more are also positioned upside down, "the tip", but fortunately today, thanks to machinery (giropalettes) in 8-10 days to carry out a job that once cost the man a lot of time 3-4 times higher. It must also be "Bloom", the procedure is called in French dégorgement, and was once done on the fly by specialist winemakers - iperpagati - and very daring, as to having to protect the mask from possible outbreaks. Today, conversely, an optimized "ice" which freezes at about -30 ° in the portion of the sparkling "bidule" to "come out" so that it is easily eliminated. Finally, the product is then filled with so-called liqueur d'expédition, clearly every house has its own secret, in general, those substances such as sulfur, wine, brown sugar, brandy stravecchio ... That is why various products are different, according to the content residual sugar in wine, brut de brut or brut zero (0 g per liter), extra brut (0-6 g per liter), brut (less than 15 g per liter), extra dry (12-20 g per liter) , sec (17-35 g per liter), demi-sec 36-50 g per liter), sweet (greater than 50 g per liter). Otherwise, ie if is not given to the liqueur d'expédition, sparkling wine - very dry, from "hard-core" - is called pas dosé, nature, dosage zero ... It 's now time to pack the bottle and offer it to the market. It only remains to add that once the bulky capsule "mask" any failure of product caused by its operations manual. Sparkling wines can be enjoyed within a year, as well as waiting 1 or 2 or even 5 years. And there are even more long-lived vintage. Remember that only Charmat last less long, and should be drunk within the year when fresh, within 2 years when dried. The service temperature typically hovers around to 6-8 °.
The chapter on wine finishes with a rapid description of the natural sweet wines, those wines that is where - with a narrow range of procedures, sometimes intuitive and old - to save you stop the fermentation of sugar.
The sweetness of the wines are made explicit in a report g / liter, sweet wines have an average 60 grams per liter, but some reach 400.
These wines can be divided for convenience in teaching
- fortified (or liqueur)
-
from dried grapes - grapes from botrytis
- Eiswein (Icewine).
The first arises from an intuition of the English masters of the Mediterranean, which carried to the mainland from Marsala wine, Port, Madeira, and to reach "safe and sound" to target them enriched taste of alcohol, brandy, sometimes dehydrated wort ... The compound is mistelle or siphon. Notoriously, 16 °, even more daring yeasts die (well, you must log Bayanus, used eg. The Amarone and the Champagne), and therefore wine was kept in a high sugar content. Those wines, stabilized, unmarked, levied upon arrival a great success "taste". The Madera, still, is enhanced by wine and brandy warmed in estufas. Today they are recognizable by the pink band on the top of the excise, and have an alcohol content minimum of 12 °. Among them also Sherry (Jerez, Xérès). They all fit especially to the desserts.
The second category, already known to the Greeks, originated from sur-ripening in the plant and now is in Picolit nell'Aleatico Gradoli expression maybe higher, but let's not forget other deficits resulting from Sfursat from Brachetto, the White Cinque Terre ... The two "secrets" are the presence of old vineyards and the availability of perfect clusters, which are variously dried in the sun (in the case of Greek Bianco, Pantelleria ...), on trellises (as in Vin Santo , Torcolato Breganze Erbaluce, Recioto ...), completely dry in fruttai and airy, lying on mats when the weather permits, in cells conditioned with systems that accelerate dehydration in various ways ... The stalk lignification, malic and citric acids decreased. The grapes are reduced in volume from 100 to 60 kg or less. The steps are obviously among the wines richer in sulfur, as well as mold, due to the presence of raisins and rotting, it counteracts the danger of re-fermentation. Arise from regular wine grapes, in this case dried / dehydrated without addition of alcohol and without special additives "technical".
The third category, nobly "rare", reveals that wines made from grapes in a mold botritica - a noble rot - you develops inside the berries, removing water, making glycerin and flavorings. These are called wine molds, French Sauternes (Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle occasionally) and some wonderful product Alsatian and Austrian (Trockenbeerenauslese), whether based Gewürztraminer softer and more acidic when based on riesling, but the unmistakable scent of fruits exotic saffron ...
Finally, the fourth category is derived from grapes harvested late (frozen), in November, even at temperatures of -8 °, while Galaverna, also pressing the needles of ice that covered the plant and have "sucked" the primary aromas. Magnificent even - perhaps especially - at the Ontario canadese, sono anch’essi a base gewürztraminer e riesling. In Italia si stanno effettuando tentativi ad es. col moscato bianco del Piemonte e con lo chardonnay
Umberto Curti, Ligucibario & Liguricettario
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