Ferdinand Bregante, vintner in Tigullio controls in September, the ripening of the grapes ...
text by Umberto Curti, Ligucibario (www.ligucibario.com)
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4.1 The vinification in white and red
The color of the wine we drink, we can guess that there are different types of wine, at the base of various products: white, red, cherry red, Novel, sparkling, special . We refer here to vinification "industrial", which is made with modern technology, and not to niche products for such cases are exceptions ...
The endless white wine (note: you can still get white wine from black grapes also is the case of so-called blanc de noirs!) involves the sudden separation of solids from the liquid - but there are exceptions "Copernicus," as that Josko Gravner Ribolla Yellow takes the grapes to ferment on the skins, in pots outdoors for 7 months! -. The grapes in boxes 18-20 kg enters cracks in cold storage overnight at a temperature of +2 ° to avoid oxidation. Subsequently, a plant auger (screw spiral) carry out the crushing and stemming. The next stage, with the grapes at a temperature of about +4 ° saw action in a pneumatic press that works in low-pressure thin layers of material, so as not remove unwanted substances from the skin. Usually white wines - even the best preserved - to be consumed within 1-2 years, because then the color darkens while the scents and aromas are reduced. Exceptional wine, passed in wood and / or subjected to stirred (1), can of course take longer. The service temperature (for wine are special thermometers outdoors) is around 80-10 degrees for the young and fruity wines, 10-12 degrees for the aromatic (and some dessert and fortified wines), 12-14 ° for Wine White earned a lot and structure. If you need to quickly lower the temperature of a bottle, The best way is soak it in a drum containing water, ice and salt. The coolers in fact merely maintain the temperatures, but can not bring it down. Are coming on the market, however, also new "clothes" freezers where the bottles fit a few minutes before eating.
The vinification requires carefully measure the density of the must, that the amount of sugars present. We use a tool called Maselli, on a scale that wine "Baboo", graduated, will provide accurate results about the percentage of alcohol might, for example 18.6 (177 g of sugar, hence 10.4 ° alcohol). Against this must be entered - as we have seen - The sulfur, such as 3 grams per ton (the amount is higher in white and in sparkling wines), to prevent oxidation and favor the prevalence of sepsis and elliptical yeast. Yeasts cause fermentation, impetuously exothermic, but some avoid the heat exchanger reaches the threshold - as mentioned - excessive. From the skins "racked" and pressed 2-3 times, alcohol and sulfur dioxide "mined" and polyphenols (flavonols, anthocyanins and tannins) that we have qualitatively not only the color of wine, and both flavors. Themselves by the skins you can then distill grappa, from seeds, vice versa, you will get oil and cattle feed. The racking is sweet when it is first end of fermentation (eg. young wines to drink, not steeped in a long time), it is hot when it is finished fermenting (red wines of quality, not from aging), is delayed when cold, with long maceration over the fermentation (structured wines, thick, long-lived).
During these phases can sometimes phlebotomy (French saignée), a practice to enhance color and richness in the mining must. We proceed by removing 10-20% of liquid from the mash tub, so that the skins must interact with a number of minor. The substances found in the skins can focus, giving structure and richness to the wine. It is important that all stages of winemaking linearly, and that during the maceration (intense in the first 4-5 days), but not before - when the mass is already pressed peroxide by itself - the "cap" of skins that rises to float on top of the must, as pushed carbon dioxide, is constantly wet, at least once a day or two better, to avoid "caps" and that would cause oxidation acescenza - a curse word oenologist -. In small wineries so you run for several days milling - with sticks in piles mixed - in the larger assembly. The goal is the same: crushing and replacement (performed gently so as not to shake the muddy lees) Fans that the hat is kept wet, or crushing the top and then immersing, or spraying with wine (1 / 4 of total) taken down. The mass will be positively peroxide at the expense of carbon dioxide and for the benefit of yeast, stirred, invigorated, sugar and alcohol are not laminated, it will enhance the color, contrast with the mold. Under cold, warm over, evenly. This is particularly important in the case of cold weather. Better than too little or no punching down too far. When sugars are only a few, the fermentation slows down, and containers should be left blank 8-10 cm high, because the wine still "wholesale". Then follow the malolactic and all the other steps already described. Some red wines of good structure last - where well-preserved - a very long time, during the aging taste gradually rounds, the color turns to ruby \u200b\u200band garnet, can provide very pleasant sensory experiences, sometimes uproarious. The service temperature is around 14-15 degrees for production delicate, fruity, low tannin (and for sweet and sweet red). Around 16-17 ° for the production of medium-bodied and tannic. Around 18-19 ° for aging great red, because this temperature reduces the tannins and enhances the perception of softness and fragrance. It's called shirt any residual dyes that the aged red present on the inner walls of the bottles. If a red wine is too cold, the only strategy is to wrap the bottle sealed with a plastic bag intact and anchor it for about ten minutes max in warm water at 25 °. Be careful not to let water into the bag. The temperature of the wine will go smoothly and the label itself will not be ruined.
(1) after the fermentation, with a stick (Baton) is put back into suspension, the dregs, so that the autolysis of yeast triggers some process which gives the wine body
Umberto Curti, Ligucibario & Liguricettario
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